Alternative Greek isle destinations for the very selective traveler (Part III)

Karpathos: A “genuine” Aegean isle destination
Large Karpathos, between even larger Rhodes and Crete, is what its fans consider a particularly genuine Aegean isle destination, meaning that day-to-day life is much the same as it was decades ago, barring technological advances, of course. Tourism is mostly based on people descended from the island returning in the summer months to see family, friends and their native land. Yet Karpathos is blessed with a unique and beautiful landscape, alternating equally between a very rugged terrain and a fertile and welcoming scenery. The antithesis in both landscape and mentalities means that Karpathos caters to the holiday-maker happy to enjoy sandy shores and clear waters in one of the many organized beaches, but also to the adventurous outdoors-man (and outdoors-woman!). Numerous settlements and remains of ancient sites dot the island.

Εxtra Tips
Scuba diving is recommended at the Kastellia site, Fokia and the Ahata beach, with features “pirate’s cave”. Karpathos also has the distinction as one of the best destinations in the Aegean for waters sports, especially wind surfing. Finally, the most interesting village is Olympus – same name as the mountain – with boasts a very rich folklore tradition, given that the settlement is known as the “Women’s village”, as the women formed the great majority of the population and ran the affairs of the community. This matrilineal system emerged due to the fact that the male population was mostly absent, usually on guard around the island against Saracen and Ottoman pirates. Large numbers of the men-folk would also emigrate in the 19th century to earn income abroad before returning home.

 

Kythira – Antikyra: On the … sophisticated side
The two island “twins” are actually two hours apart if traveling by wooden fishing vessel, the venerable caique of the Aegean. Yet the two isles, also known in the local argot as Tsirigo and Tsirigoto, can dazzle visitors with their different scenery. Both islands are mostly unspoiled by mass tourism, although more upscale accommodations and eateries are the norm. There’s a fine beach for every day of the week on both islands as well.

Εxtra Tips
Melidoni beach on Kythira is known for is almost nightly … beach parties. The Kastro (castle) is also worth seeing, as visitors enter through a tunnel. The functioning Andronikos water-mill on Antikythira is worth seeing as well, along with the Alytaras lighthouse, built in 1926 and reached only by sea or through a single footpath.

Schinousa – Donousa – Iraklia: The “lesser” Cyclades allow for “greater” experiences
Schinousa, Donousa and Iraklia comprise the so-called “Lesser Cyclades” of the central Aegean. Schinousa is the most developed, after the nearby Koufonisia complex of islets, with the harbor of Mersini a magnet for power boats and smaller sailboats. Donousa, the northern-most of the trio, can easily be described as a “camper’s paradise”. Its five settlements of white-washed residences are picture perfect. One highlight for snorkelers at the Kedros beach is a sunken German ship on the sea floor. A handful of other beaches are also world-class.

Iraklia has only two settlements, Aghios (St.) Georgios, which is the harbor, and Panaghia or Pano Mera. Iraklia is the western-most and most serene trio of utterly tranquil isles. Not to be outdone by its “sister isles”, Iraklia also boasts a stunning beach for every day of the week. Diving is recommended around all three of the “Lesser Cyclades”.

Εxtra Tips
Try the local meat dishes on Schinousa and its well-regarded fava, made with a rare herb grown on the island. On Donousa trek to the freshwater spring of Mersini and visit a cove favored by the Mediterranean seal (Monachus Monachus) at Cape Moschona. In Iraklia, explore the cave of Ai Yiannis (St. John), considered one of the most interesting caves in the country and take in the view from atop the citadel in Livadi.

Greek text: Fenia Yiannouladi

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