Fear and loathing in the 'new' Turkey

My taxi drives up to the entrance of the city campus near Ankara's center. When I first came here, around 30 years ago, the guards patrolled the area with machine guns: The university was still in the throes of the post-1980 military coup. The guns were put away long ago, but I am still asked to report to security with an identity document; thankfully my name appears on the list and I am shown through.

My colleague greets me warmly and we go for lunch (fresh and delicious, even in the university canteen). I am aware of the restrictions in the Turkish media and have been struck, in the very few days I am in Turkey, by the nationalist fervor gripping the country over its military intervention in Afrin, northern Syria (the clash with Greece also fans the nationalist flames, albeit only for a day or two). My friend, however, is an expert on Syria of international renown, and I am...