Mexico fights 'plagiarism' with indigenous fashion fair

Mexico is fighting back against what it calls the plagiarism of indigenous textiles, bringing together traditional artisans and international designers for dialogue aimed at creating a more equitable fashion industry.

Dozens of indigenous weavers and other artisans are gathering this weekend at the Los Pinos former presidential residence in Mexico City for the "Original" fair hosted by the culture ministry.

Alongside an open-air market selling clothes and accessories such as the huipil, a traditional white cotton blouse with finely embroidered patterns, there are fashion parades resembling indigenous pride marches.

The goal is to end what Mexico's leftist government denounces as cultural appropriation of the motifs, embroidery and colors of indigenous communities by foreign fashion houses.

"Plagiarism is not a tribute. Theft is not the fruit of inspiration," Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto said at the fair's inauguration.

She denounced the "modern-day pirates" who "take what they like and label it as any kind of merchandise."

Mexico won an apology a year ago from French designer Isabel Marant after Frausto demanded an explanation for Marant's use of the traditional patterns of the Purepecha community in her collection.

Similar complaints have been lodged against major clothing brands, including Zara and Mango.

Marant said future designs would properly "pay tribute to our sources of inspiration."

A representative of her company was due to meet directly with indigenous artisans at the Mexico City fair, as was one for the Spanish designer Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

On Nov. 19, two young designers from Paris sat down with craftsman Ignacio Netzahualcoyotl and his partner Christian Janat at their...