Following a folk tale through the Himalayas

The Panchachuli peaks, a group of five snow-capped Himalayan mountain tops that reach 22,651 feet and tower over the Johar Valley in the Kumaon region of India, July 20, 2020. A trek through northern India is guided by the age-old epic story of 'Rajula Malushahi' leads to a series of unexpected places. [Michael Benanav/The New York Times]

In a high hamlet, a two-hour trek up a verdant slope beneath ice-clad Himalayan peaks, an argument erupted over a folk tale. Two brothers, Pralad Singh Dariyal, 60, and Hira Singh Dariyal, 77, heatedly debated which nearby village in the Johar Valley was once the home of the story's heroine. Eventually agreeing on a few possible locations, Hira said that the story, which is sung as a ballad and which he remembered from childhood, was virtually unknown today among the area's young people. "They're the YouTube generation," he explained with a shrug.

"No one even knows how to sing it anymore," Pralad added.

The voice of Pralad's wife, Sundari Devi, rang out from the kitchen into the courtyard, where I sat with the brothers and a couple of other people in front of clothing drying on a line and pieces of a butchered sheep drying on a neighbor's stone-shingled roof. "You...

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