Message in the air: Food for the souls

Tomorrow, Feb. 6, is the anniversary of the earthquake that devastated 11 provinces in Türkiye. As the anniversary is approaching, after a full year after the earthquake, the wounds are still being healed and aid projects for the region continue. The suffering is still there, the loved ones lost have not been forgotten, and people will be making the traditional commemoration sweet "helva" to pay their respects to ones who are gone forever.

In our culture, there are various ways to celebrate the souls of the dead. There are a variety of foods, usually sweet, that are made after those who have passed away. The most common is "semolina helva" (irmik helvası), basically semolina and pine nuts pan-fried in abundant butter, then with the addition of milk or water and sugar, it turns into a grainy couscous-like texture. The pan-roasting of the semolina has to be a slow process with constant stirring, just to give it a pinkish tint, taking care not to brown or burn the grain. So does the process of mixing after the helva is all done with the addition of the milky or simple syrup, to make it fluffy and grainy. It is essential to make funeral halva with shared labor, give hands to the endless stirring and mixing process while reciting prayers. All the family members, or anyone that happens to be around, take turns to handle the big wooden spoon, turning over the semolina mass whilst uttering prayers, wishing the souls of the deceased one to rest in peace and repose. The custom is to make helva in large quantities in order to give away to neighbors, friends, relatives, or even passersby. There is a custom of making halva in every corner of the country, some differing in ingredients, some with added flavorings. The traditional pine nut can be replaced with almonds,...