Picnic time in Ottoman Istanbul

The spring and summer months were warm most years in Ottoman Istanbul, a city far greener than it is today but lacking in many of the ways modern people amuse themselves. Picnics were more popular back then than they are today, as soon as people were sure that spring had arrived, usually on 22 March, which marked the beginning of the New Year.

Almost any public green space served as a place to have a picnic; open spaces officially belonged to the sultan - whether or not he chose to do anything with them. Kağıthane, Fenerbahçe, Kavacik, Beykoz, Göksu, Baltalimanı Çayırı, Sultaniye Çayırı, Çubuklu Çayırı, Havuzbaşı Çayırı – they could be along the shores of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, the Marmara Sea or on the hills, the only criterion was that it was an open space with trees, greenery and a magnificent view.

A “çayır” basically meant a meadow or pasture. These more likely were reached by land and weren’t necessarily alongside a stream. The most important thing was to enjoy the greenery and fresh air after months of winter.

Men rode on their horses and women came in carriages or elaborately decorated carts. But they didn’t picnic as a family. The men would stay somewhat separate from the women and look to their own amusement. This even meant fathers, brothers and husbands. It seems, however, that many more women went on picnics than men - especially women from the upper and upper middle class who had time on their hands and slaves or servants to take care of the details.

The picnic areas

The first and foremost picnic area was on the north side of the Golden Horn in what is now Kağıthane. Its popularity, which undoubtedly derived from its proximity to the historic peninsula - which was...