Dior couture celebrates the craft of fashion in Paris show

The atelier, the workshop of hands, took the Dior center stage on Jan. 24 for a refined show on the first day of Paris couture week, which aims to elevate the work of the house's behind-the-scenes seamstresses.

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said she wanted to demonstrate how the craft of the dozens of "petites main" seamstresses, many of whom have worked in the atelier for decades, was equally important as the art or fashion itself.

Teeming white beaded tapestry embroideries on a structured ecru wool twill coat were a case in point. Here, more than ornamenting the garment, they actually created its silhouette, which was weighty and chic. Art and craft, Chiuri was saying through the clothes, are one and the same.

An ash gray crepe skirt with a high waist seemed almost alive thanks to its myriad long embroideries that rustled and shook on the pixie-like model.

Embroidered tights were also a big theme for spring, with Dior's army of seamstresses having gone to work in embellishing several statement pieces. Unfortunately the sheer weight of the paillette embroidering did not always cut the most flattering of shapes on some of the tights, all be them finely executed.

In style terms, there were hints of the on-trend 60s, with features such as Peter Pan collars appearing on sensuous sheer organza blouses, or neat fitted Bar silhouette tuxedo suits with bold menswear black satin lapels.

Maskless Cara Delevingne at Dior

Stringent measures have been implemented across Paris Fashion Week to comply with French government guidance amid a surge of omicron-driven new infections.

COVID-19 has brought the fashion industry to its knees seeing the cancellation of countless shows, even ending entire seasons, and...