Luscious Loquat

Three colors constitute the traffic lights: Red, yellow and green. These three colors are also indicators of spring in Turkey. A plate of red cherries, yellow loquats and greengages has an unquestionable place at a spring table. This wonderful trio of fruits adorns tables in an inseparable combination often served instead of dessert, presented with a few ice cubes to emphasize juicy freshness. Greengages, as I mentioned in last week's article, are the green light for spring. When they appear in the market, it means that spring has really arrived. The loquats and cherries are soon to follow. Loquats are short-lived; like its traffic light counterpart, they only light up the markets temporarily. With their shiny, sunny face, they tell us red is soon to follow, that is, cherries. Cherries herald the end of spring and the start of the full bounty of summer fruits, apricots, peaches and so on… 

Loquat is also the telltale sign of the kebab calendar in Southeast Turkey. In Gaziantep, recently designated as the City of Gastronomy in the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, kebabs have their own agenda with ingredients changing according to the advance of the seasons. Spring brings fresh green garlic and parsley, followed by whole garlic bulbs, loquats and desert truffles. In summer, sun-ripened tomatoes, peppers and eggplants take over, and in autumn kebabs with onions and quinces take the stage, giving way to winter kebabs. 

In late spring, the fresh garlic heads become larger, announcing the imminent arrival of summer. At this point the garlic cloves are fully formed, but still not dry and full of crunch. This is also the season for desert truffles and loquats, and all three together make a stunning flavor combination. Loquat kebab is a much-loved local...